It’s the moment every laundry-doer dreads: the cycle finishes, but when you open the lid, you’re greeted by a tub full of water and a pile of soaking wet clothes. A washing machine that’s not draining or not spinning is a major headache, but don’t call for an expensive repair just yet!
Many common washer issues are surprisingly easy to fix yourself. You just need a little guidance, a few basic tools, and the confidence to get started. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the troubleshooting process step-by-step, from the simplest checks to the most common part replacements. Let’s get your washer back in action and your clothes on the line to dry.
Safety First!
Before you even think about opening up your machine, let’s go over some crucial safety precautions. Your well-being is more important than any appliance.
- Unplug the Washer: This is non-negotiable. Disconnect the washing machine from the wall outlet to eliminate any risk of electric shock.
- Shut Off the Water: Turn off both the hot and cold water supply valves. They are typically located on the wall behind the washer.
- Prepare for Water: Since your washer failed to drain, there’s water in the drum and hoses. Have plenty of old towels and a shallow bucket or pan ready to catch spills.
- Wear Gloves: Protective gloves can save your hands from grime, sharp edges, and soapy water.
Tools You Might Need
You won’t need a full mechanic’s workshop for this job. Here’s a list of tools and potential parts that will cover most scenarios:
Tools:
- Bucket and towels
- Pliers (channel-lock and needle-nose)
- Screwdriver set (Phillips and flat-head)
- Putty knife or flat-head screwdriver (for prying open panels)
- Multimeter (for more advanced electrical tests)
- Shop-vac (optional, but very helpful for water removal)
Potential Parts:
- Drain Pump
- Lid Switch Assembly
- Drain Hose
Why Your Washer Isn’t Draining or Spinning
First, it’s important to understand that these two problems are often linked. Most modern washing machines have a sensor that prevents the high-speed spin cycle from starting if water is still detected in the drum. This is a safety feature to prevent the machine from becoming unbalanced and “walking” across your laundry room.
So, if your washer is not spinning, the root cause is very likely a drainage issue. Let’s start troubleshooting there.
Step 1: The Simple Checks (No Tools Required)
Start with the easiest potential culprits. You’d be surprised how often the fix is this simple!
Check for a Kinked Drain Hose
Pull the washing machine away from the wall slightly. Inspect the drain hose (the large, flexible hose running from the back of the washer to a standpipe or laundry sink). Is it bent, kinked, or crushed? A simple kink can completely block water flow. Straighten it out and try running a “Drain & Spin” cycle to see if that solves it.
Reset Your Machine
Sometimes, a power surge or a minor computer glitch can throw your washer off. Unplugging it for 5-10 minutes (which you already did for safety!) can reset the main control board. Plug it back in and see if it will now drain.
Check the Lid Switch
For top-loading washers, the lid switch is a small but mighty component. It’s a safety device that tells the machine the lid is closed, allowing it to agitate and spin. If it’s broken or malfunctioning, the washer will often fill and wash, but will refuse to drain or spin.
- Locate the Switch: It’s usually a small plastic piece that protrudes from the lid and fits into a hole on the top of the machine’s body.
- Listen for the “Click”: As you close the lid, you should hear a distinct “click.” If you don’t, the switch might be stuck or broken.
- Test it Manually: With the lid open, you can often press the switch down manually with the end of a pen or screwdriver (while the machine is running a spin cycle). If the washer starts to drain or spin, you’ve found your culprit! Replacing a lid switch is a common and affordable DIY repair.
Step 2: Clear the Drain Pump Filter
This is the single most common reason for a washing machine not draining. The drain pump filter (sometimes called a “coin trap”) is designed to catch lint, coins, buttons, and other debris before it can damage the pump. When it gets clogged, water can’t get out.
- Locate the Filter: On most front-loading washers, the filter is behind a small access door on the bottom-front corner of the machine. On some top-loaders, you may need to remove the front or back panel to access the pump directly. Consult your owner’s manual if you’re unsure.
- Prepare for a Flood: Remember all that water in the drum? It’s about to come out. Place a shallow pan under the filter cap and have towels ready. Many models have a small emergency drain hose next to the filter cap—use this first to drain most of the water into a bucket.
- Unscrew the Filter: Slowly turn the filter cap counter-clockwise. Water will start to leak out. Let it drain into your pan, emptying it as needed. Once the flow stops, you can fully unscrew and remove the filter.
- Clean it Out: You’ll likely find a lovely collection of lint, hair, coins, and maybe even a missing sock! Clean the filter thoroughly under a faucet.
- Check the Impeller: With the filter removed, peek into the housing. You should be able to see the small pump impeller (it looks like a tiny fan). Make sure it’s clear of debris and can spin freely with your finger (with the machine unplugged, of course!).
- Reassemble: Screw the filter back in securely, close the access panel, and test the machine with a “Drain & Spin” cycle.
Step 3: Test the Drain Pump
If the filter was clean (or cleaning it didn’t help), the drain pump itself may have failed. The motor might be burned out or an object could be jamming the impeller internally.
For more advanced DIYers, you can test the pump motor with a multimeter.
- Access the Pump: Following the steps from above, gain access to the pump.
- Disconnect the Wires: Carefully remove the two wire connectors from the pump terminals.
- Test for Continuity: Set your multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting. Touch one probe to each of the pump’s electrical terminals. A good pump motor will show a reading, typically between 5 and 20 Ohms. If the multimeter reads “OL” (Open Line) or shows infinite resistance, the motor is burned out and the pump needs to be replaced.
If the multimeter test passes, the pump motor is likely fine, but the impeller could still be jammed internally. Replacing a drain pump is a very manageable DIY project and much cheaper than buying a new washer.
When to Call a Professional
You’ve followed the steps, but your washer is still holding water. If you’ve checked the hose, cleaned the filter, and confirmed the lid switch is working, the problem might be more complex. It could be a faulty control board, a pressure switch issue, or a broken drive belt.
At this point, it might be time to call a qualified appliance repair technician. You’ve done the essential groundwork, which will save the technician time and you money on the diagnostic fee.
You’ve Got This!
Facing a washer full of soaking wet clothes is frustrating, but troubleshooting a machine that’s not draining is a fantastic entry point into the world of DIY appliance repair. By following these steps, you can solve the majority of drainage problems yourself.
Take it one step at a time, prioritize safety, and feel the satisfaction of fixing your own machine. Did this guide help you? Do you have another tip to share? Let us know in the comments below