You load up your dryer, press the start button, and instead of the familiar gentle tumble, you’re met with a loud, angry BUZZZZ. The drum doesn’t move, and the buzzing stops as soon as you let go of the button. It’s a frustrating moment, but I’ve got good news for you: that buzzing sound is a fantastic clue. It tells us that electricity is trying to do its job, but something is physically stopping it.
In my years as an appliance repair technician, this is one of the most common calls I get. The great part is that more often than not, the fix is surprisingly simple and affordable. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the diagnostic steps, from the most likely culprits to the more complex ones, so you can pinpoint the real problem and get your dryer running again.
Safety First: Your Most Important Tool
Before you even think about opening up your dryer, let’s go over the essential safety rules. Electricity and appliances demand respect.
- Unplug the Dryer: This is non-negotiable. Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet completely. For electric dryers with a large 240V plug, this is crucial. If you have a gas dryer, you should also shut off the gas supply valve, typically located on the line behind the appliance.
- Wear Protective Gloves: The inside of a dryer has many sharp metal edges. A good pair of work gloves will save your hands from cuts and scrapes.
- Have a Towel Ready: Place a towel or blanket on the floor to protect both your dryer’s finish and your floor when you need to tilt or lay down panels.
- Take Pictures: As you disassemble parts, take photos with your phone. This creates a visual guide for reassembly and helps you remember where every screw and wire goes.
Table of contents
What You’ll Need
Here’s a list of tools and potential parts you might need for this repair. You likely won’t need all of them, but it’s good to know what’s involved.
Tools:
- Multimeter (for testing electrical continuity)
- Screwdriver set (Phillips and flat-head)
- Nut driver (usually 1/4” or 5/16”)
- Pliers (needle-nose are especially helpful)
- Putty knife (for releasing clips on some models)
Potential Parts:
- Dryer Drive Belt
- Start Switch
- Drive Motor
- Idler Pulley
Diagnosing the Buzz: A Step-by-Step Guide
The buzzing you hear is the sound of the drive motor receiving power but being unable to turn. Our job is to figure out what’s stopping it. We’ll start with the easiest and most common cause and work our way down.
Step 1: Check for an Obstruction
Sometimes, the simplest answer is the right one. A small item of clothing, a sock, or another foreign object could be wedged between the drum and the dryer housing, physically jamming it.
- With the dryer still unplugged, open the door.
- Try to turn the drum by hand.
- Does it turn freely? If it does, an obstruction is unlikely, and you can move to Step 2.
- If it’s stuck or very difficult to turn, use a flashlight to carefully inspect the gap between the front of the drum and the felt seal. Look for anything that might be caught. If you find something, try to carefully remove it with pliers.
If the drum spins freely by hand, the problem lies elsewhere.
Step 2: The Most Common Culprit: A Broken Drive Belt
A broken drive belt is the #1 reason a dryer won’t start and just makes a buzzing noise. On many dryers, the motor assembly includes a switch that is held down by the tension of the belt. If the belt breaks, the switch isn’t engaged, and the motor won’t get the signal to run, resulting in a hum as it receives partial power.
The Quick Test: Open the dryer door and spin the drum by hand again. Does it spin very easily with little to no resistance? If so, your drive belt is almost certainly broken. A drum with a good belt will feel a bit heavy and you’ll hear the motor hum slightly as you turn it.
How to Inspect and Replace the Drive Belt:
- Access the Cabinet: This varies by model.
- Top Panel: Most dryers have a lint screen on top. Remove the screws in the lint screen housing, then use a putty knife to release the two clips holding the top panel down at the front.
- Front Panel: On other models, you’ll need to remove a lower access panel or the entire front panel. Look for screws at the bottom or sides.
- Locate the Belt: Once you have a panel off, you should be able to see the drum. Look for the thin rubber belt. Is it snapped and lying at the bottom of the cabinet? Or is it just stretched out and loose?
- Order the Right Part: If the belt is broken, you’ll need a new one. Use your dryer’s model number (usually found on a sticker inside the door) to order the exact replacement drive belt.
- Install the New Belt: Loop the new belt around the drum (ribbed side against the drum). Then, route it down around the motor pulley and the idler pulley. The idler pulley is spring-loaded and creates tension. You’ll need to push it to get the belt onto the motor pulley. This is the trickiest part, so refer to a diagram for your specific model if you can.
If you open up your dryer and find the belt is intact and has good tension, move on to the next step.
Step 3: Test the Start Switch
The start switch is what you press to begin the cycle. It’s a “momentary” switch that sends power to the motor windings. If it’s faulty, it might only send enough power to make the motor buzz without fully engaging it.
- Access the Switch: The start switch is located on the main control panel. You’ll need to remove the back or top panel of the control console to get to its electrical terminals.
- Disconnect the Wires: With the dryer unplugged, carefully disconnect the two wires leading to the start switch.
- Test for Continuity: Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (it often has a sound icon). Place one probe on each of the switch’s terminals. The multimeter should show no continuity. Now, press and hold the start button. The multimeter should beep or show a reading close to zero, indicating a complete circuit.
- Analyze the Results: If the switch fails to show continuity when pressed, it’s bad and needs to be replaced. This is a common and inexpensive repair.
Step 4: When It’s the Drive Motor
If the belt is good and the switch tests fine, the problem may be the motor itself. A motor can seize up due to worn-out bearings or have a failure in its start winding. In either case, it gets power (the buzz) but can’t begin to turn.
- Isolate the Motor: To confirm a seized motor, you’ll need to remove the drive belt from the motor pulley. This removes the load of the drum.
- Try to Turn the Pulley: With the belt off, try to turn the motor’s pulley shaft by hand. It should spin freely. If it’s stiff, gritty, or completely stuck, the motor has seized and must be replaced.
- Test the Windings (Advanced): If the pulley spins freely, the motor’s internal start winding might have failed. You can test this with a multimeter set to resistance (Ohms). You’ll need to find your dryer’s wiring diagram (often found inside the cabinet) to know which terminals to test and what the correct resistance values should be. A reading of infinity (OL) on the start winding means it’s failed.
Replacing a dryer motor is a more advanced DIY repair, but it’s definitely achievable. Just be sure to order the correct part for your model and take plenty of photos during disassembly.
Time to Make the Fix
You’ve done the hard part—diagnosing the problem! Now you can confidently order the right part and get your appliance back in working order. Remember to take your time during reassembly, referring to the photos you took along the way.
The buzzing dryer is a classic problem, and fixing it yourself is incredibly rewarding. You not only save money but also gain a valuable new skill.
If you’ve gone through these steps and are still stuck, or if you’re not comfortable working with electrical components, that’s perfectly okay. Sometimes, the best tool is the phone, and calling a qualified professional is the safest and quickest solution.
Have you ever tackled this repair before? Share your experience or any questions in the comments below