That awful sound started last week. First, it was a faint squeak… squeak… squeak as the dryer tumbled. Soon, it grew into a high-pitched squeal, joined by a rhythmic thump… thump… thump that you could hear from the other side of the house. If your laundry room has started sounding like a haunted factory, don’t call for an expensive repair just yet.
That dreadful squealing noise or grinding, thumping sound is one of the most common dryer problems, and the good news is that it’s almost always caused by a few small, inexpensive parts that have simply worn out. I’m going to walk you through how to diagnose the noise and replace the culprits—the drum rollers and the idler pulley—yourself. You’ve got this!
Safety First!
Before you even think about picking up a tool, let’s make sure we do this safely. Your well-being is more important than any appliance.
- UNPLUG THE DRYER. I can’t stress this enough. Unplug it from the wall outlet completely.
- For Gas Dryers: Turn off the gas supply. There should be a shut-off valve on the gas line behind the dryer. Turn the handle so it’s perpendicular to the pipe.
- Wear Gloves: Sheet metal edges can be surprisingly sharp. A good pair of work gloves will save your knuckles.
- Take Photos: Use your phone to take pictures as you disassemble things. This creates a visual guide for putting it all back together.
- Get a Helper: The dryer drum can be bulky and awkward. Having a second person to help lift it out and put it back in is a huge help.
The Tools and Parts You’ll Need
Most of the tools required are probably already in your garage. The parts are easily found online or at an appliance parts store.
Tools:
- Nut driver or socket set (a 1/4” and 5/16” will handle most dryers)
- Sturdy putty knife or a flat-head screwdriver
- Work gloves
- Shop vacuum with a crevice tool
- Flashlight or headlamp
Parts:
To find the right parts, you’ll need your dryer’s model number, which is usually on a sticker inside the door frame.
- Dryer Maintenance Kit: This is your best bet. For around $20-$30, these kits typically include new drum rollers, an idler pulley, and a new drive belt. Since you’re already taking everything apart, it’s smart to replace all these wear-and-tear items at once.
- Drum Rollers: These are the small wheels the drum rests on. Most dryers have two in the back, but some models have four (two in front, two in back).
- Idler Pulley: This small wheel keeps tension on the drive belt. It’s the number one cause of a high-pitched squealing noise.
- Drive Belt: The belt that spins the drum. A frayed belt can cause thumping.
Step-by-Step: Silencing Your Squeaky Dryer
Alright, let’s get our hands dirty and bring peace back to the laundry room. Most modern dryers from brands like Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and Amana have a similar construction.
Step 1: Open Up the Dryer Cabinet
First, we need to get inside. On most models, the front panel comes off.
- Find the two clips holding the top panel down. Slide a putty knife into the seam between the top and front panels, about 2-3 inches in from each corner.
- Press in to release the clip while lifting that corner of the top panel. Repeat on the other side.
- Lift the top panel and hinge it back like the hood of a car.
- Disconnect the wire harness for the door switch. It’s a small plastic plug near the top of the front panel. Just squeeze the tab and pull it apart. (This is a great time to check your “before” photos!)
- Remove the two screws inside the cabinet that hold the front panel on (usually 5/16” hex heads).
- Lift the front panel up and off its bottom clips and set it aside.
Step 2: Remove the Drum Belt and Drum
Now you can see the big drum. The belt is wrapped around it and a motor/pulley system at the bottom.
- Reach underneath the drum to find the idler pulley assembly.
- Push the idler pulley in to release the tension on the belt. While holding it, slip the belt off the motor shaft. It can be a little awkward, but you’ll feel it when it comes loose.
- Using the old belt as a handle, carefully lift the drum up and guide it out of the cabinet.
Pro Tip: Now that the drum is out, grab your shop vac! This is the perfect opportunity to clean out years of accumulated lint from inside the cabinet. A clean dryer is a safer, more efficient dryer.
Step 3: Replace the Worn Drum Rollers
With the drum gone, you’ll see the drum rollers, usually on the rear bulkhead. They look like little rubber wheels.
- Check the rollers. A bad roller will either be visibly worn down, have cracks in the rubber, or won’t spin freely.
- Most rollers are held on by a simple C-clip or a triangular “tri-ring.” Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the clip off the shaft.
- Slide the old roller off, slide the new one on, and secure it with the clip.
- Replace all of them. Even if one looks okay, it’s on its way out. You’re already here—don’t create a job for your future self!
Step 4: Replace the Idler Pulley
The source of that awful squeal is next. The idler pulley is on the assembly you used to release the belt tension.
- The old pulley usually just slides right off its post.
- Slide the new pulley on. Make sure it spins freely. That’s it! This is often the easiest part of the whole job.
Step 5: Reinstall the Belt and Drum
This is the trickiest step, but take your time.
- Wrap the new belt around the drum, making sure the ribbed side is facing down against the drum. Position it in the same wear-mark path the old belt left.
- Carefully guide the drum back into the cabinet. Rest the back edge of the drum on your new rollers.
- Now, get back on the floor and re-thread the belt. Loop it through the idler pulley and onto the motor shaft. The correct path usually looks like an “S” bend going under the idler pulley to create tension. If you’re unsure, search for a belt diagram for your specific model number.
- Once the belt is on, rotate the drum by hand a few times. The belt should stay in place and the drum should spin smoothly on the new rollers.
Step 6: Reassemble and Test
You’re in the home stretch!
- Put everything back together in the reverse order you took it apart: Reattach the front panel with its screws, reconnect the door switch wire harness, and snap the top panel back down.
- Plug the dryer in and turn the gas back on (if you have one).
- Run a test cycle. The only sound you should hear is the gentle hum of the motor and the soft tumble of clothes.
Conclusion
Congratulations! You just performed a major appliance repair, saved yourself a significant repair bill, and restored peace and quiet to your home. That thumping noise and grinding noise are gone for good.
Most loud dryer issues come down to these simple, moving parts. By replacing them as a set, you’ve likely extended the life of your dryer for years to come.
Did you tackle this repair? Have any questions? Drop a comment below—I’d love to hear how it went